Face shape

You never forget your first pair of glasses.

This is what happened to Arianna Foscarini, an image consultant specialising in eyewear with several aces up her sleeve: the first is that underpinning what has become a long-standing profession, as a professional optician, were years of technical and scientific training in ophthalmology, followed by further training in areas such as fashion and design. The second is that her passion for eyewear took its first steps in a family environment with marked creative and artistic roots, which made it immediately clear to her that sometimes applying formulas to the letter only works on paper. So, when at the age of 14 she had to wear the prescription glasses that successfully corrected her myopia, she made a painful discovery: they did not do her justice on an aesthetic level but forced her to wear that form of discomfort which, at school, as many have experienced, led to her being called four-eyes. This personal experience inspired her life’s mission, to support people in choosing the right glasses to express their uniqueness. Because you need allies to give substance to your style. And a pair of glasses can make all the difference.

Elongated glasses, such as cat eye or butterfly, are perfect for round faces

A question of method: Foskap.

Arianna is the only image consultant, specialising in eyewear, to have formulated her own method about ten years ago, the result of extensive professional experience as an optician. Foskap combines the convenience of tests that bring aesthetics and technique together, through colour analysis and the shape of the glasses to be chosen by analysing the person’s face. “Often, people choose a pair of glasses solely on the basis of the shape of their face,” explains Arianna. “In actual fact, this ignores many other characteristics of the face that are decisive for the purpose, such as volume for example – a face can be gaunt or flat – the size of the nose, on which the glasses fit, which catalyses attention by being in the centre of the face.” “The other very important part is the golden ratio, in which the eyes, in terms of their refractive aspect, size, shape, their distance, and, finally, the mouth are fundamental.”

Ofte, people choose a pair of glasses solely on the basis of the shape of their faces. Triangle faces suit the famous Pilot glasses

Shape is also inspiration.

The shape of the face is the starting point in Arianna’s method and an inspiration at the same time. For example, all shapes of spectacles suit the oval face, identified by Leonardo Da Vinci as the perfect shape. “In this case, it is important to harmonise volumes and enhance the person’s specific points of seduction: the eyes or mouth for example.” It is precisely from Da Vinci’s face of perfection that the harmonisation of Arianna’s method works, using optical tricks. For this reason, the four corners typical of a square face will be softened by the rounded shapes of the glasses. Conversely, a round face without sharp edges needs movement. “Elongated glasses, such as cat eye or butterfly, are perfect in this case. Another important factor is the facial volume, on which, in the case of a particularly full face, it is possible to intervene by choosing a suitable material, such as metals.” What about the distinctive triangle face? “It’s the only face the famous Pilot glasses suit.” While this is extremely true from a technical point of view, from a stylistic point of view, personality is a decisive component when choosing a pair of glasses. It may be that the right shape on paper doesn’t match the character of the person who is supposed to wear it. In that case, we have to work on opposites and tricks, because sometimes, in order to bring ideal and style together, we need modern-day alchemists.

Summer in your shades

The colour wheel that dominates the Style Department in Longarone brings to mind the ancient native American Medicine wheel.

If the map of the Universe of these peoples is still today structured with elements that contribute to the essential changes in life and in nature, where every colour has its own meaning and speaks of the Great Spirit that regulates the world, at the Marcolin colour wheel there is a great team of creatives and colour and material specialists. Silvia De Col is in charge of this curious and inspirational chapter in the story of how the eyewear colour palette changes from winter to summer. Since the very beginning, it appears clear that colours speak their own language and that it takes skill to channel them towards effective interplays of light and shadow.

Brighten up the tones.

«For this colour and material analysis we used as reference some combinations featured by one of our brands for fall-winter, whose colours and material finishes evoke the winter season. Our goal was to brighten up these tones without denaturing the brand’s signature palette» says De Col. «We also wanted to maintain a common thread running through the two seasons» she continues. «So, we worked with the colour wheel and turned on the light» she adds passionately. «We managed to brighten up the colours and the typical wintery shading, while maintaining the colour combinations by adding white». But to convey those emotional vibes that turn the warm season into the season of love, the team also focused on a colour trend analysis.
Three macro-themes were created. «The first one expresses itself through natural tones, such as brown and Havana. The second one features pastel and dusty hues, which clearly recall powder tones, like make-up. The third trend instead expresses itself through pop nuances» remarks Silvia.

Unmistakable summer vibes.

«We combined these three worlds together, leveraging on unique interplays of light that brighten up the hues. The colour Havana, for example, is more neutral and toned down in its winter version than in its summer one, which instead is enriched with tones of mint. This shade of green, according to our trend analyses, is perceived as more joyful and better suited for the summer season».
This method was used for all the colours and materials featured in the collections, because playing with transparency or design in general, combined with a colour palette, is not just a question of style. The secret lies in finding combinations that highlight the type of design you wish to enhance.

Customer Experience

The presentation of Marcolin Group’s new Eyewear 2023 collections, from 17 to 22 June, took place in a resort combining the beauty of a jewel of historical value with unspoilt nature.

In Pozzolengo, just a few miles from picturesque Lake Garda, we had the opportunity to shorten and cancel out the inevitable distances of a Group that weaves and nurtures its relationships in every corner of the world. So, just like the never-tiring spider, who labours with dedication on its work of art, giving it depth, shape and an out-of-the-ordinary reach, capable of combining precision and creativity, Marcolin has welcomed what has become, to all intents and purposes, its community.

In a historical moment full of challenges and opportunities, stimulating innovation and evolution in an equally rapidly changing environment, the secret of transformation lies in relationships.

An immersive five days with the individual partners who convey the face of Marcolin to the world every day with a precise purpose: to share the values that underpin the group. We started from the ‘Made in Italy’ concept, characterised and recognised globally in terms of knowledge and identity, and went further, going towards the central role played by aesthetic research, with its shapes, colours and materials, aware that excellence comes from the unique nature of manufacturing. Finally, we arrived at the taste of discovery, revealing the skilled artisans who work behind the scenes to produce the collections, just as many as the different and varied souls embodied by the brands that put their trust in Marcolin.

There is no reunion, however, without the renewal of a promise, of intentions and a heartfelt ‘see you soon’.

With this vision and spirit, the essence of which reflects the high value Marcolin attributes to its partners, a new dedicated project has been created: Customer Experience Transformation. Marcolin travels the road of renewal by methodically and inclusively involving all the stakeholders that have been building its success for over 60 years. 
CX Transformation is the ideal dimension in which its Vision and Mission come together. Being identified as a point of reference in the global eyewear market is only possible by recognising the key role played by partners in the company’s growth.

We are building a hypothetical dictionary containing the words that orientate our CX Transformation.

We therefore give the utmost importance to listening and forecasting the needs of our partners, as well as to the ongoing improvement of our relationships, our creations and the services we offer. Evolution, after all, is also the result of the most careful communication strategies. And what is communication if not a noble act of sharing?

Marcolin in Stockholm

In the capital city of Sweden, stretching along the eastern coast with a scenic landscape that is iconically dotted with 14 islands and over 50 bridges connecting them, the horizon seems to dissolve, its thin line blurring, bridging the waters of Lake Mälaren with the calm ones of the Baltic Sea.

In these North European locations, the month of June perfectly embodies the metamorphosis of the calendar of the “soul”, strictly connected with the awakening of nature. In Stockholm, the dark and long winter months give way to a bright picturesque landscape, which unwaveringly sheds its light onto every corner of the city. Oblivious to the night, its gentle touch caresses a landscape that conveys femininity, starting with the element that enlivens it the most: water. In the City Hall, as a sign of rebirth, where myth blends together with folklore in the celebration and worship of the summer solstice, of trees and female deities, Max Mara presented the Resort 24 collection, whose lines and patterns clearly nod to the Scandinavian land.

Marcolin flew to Stockholm to see the city’s spirit through the eyes of one of its many talents, Lisa Olsson, a big devotee of the Max Mara brand.

The meeting with Lisa, Founder and Jewellery Designer of Nootka, takes place in her boutique, located in the vibrant Norrmalm district, among the neoclassical buildings of an area that is dotted with cafés and Swedish design and fashion corner stores. Nature, an essential element for any city resident, takes the form of the Kungsträdgården Park, with its lush trees and pathways winding through an enchanted fairytale-like landscape. As soon as you step into her atelier, the bright June sunlight becomes one with the shade of coral that dominates the walls and the overall atmosphere of the place. «I longed for the warmth of summer all year long. This color was the best choice», Lisa points out, and then starts telling us her adventure as a designer from the very beginning. «I was born in Malmö but I’ve lived in Stockholm for about nine years now».

I love the fact that it’s a big city with a sustainable approach: you can walk or ride a bike anywhere. Then there’s the water element that makes it unique.

The designer’s love for the capital city also resonates through her words.

«I love the fact that it’s a big city with a sustainable approach: you can walk or ride a bike anywhere. Then there’s the water element that makes it unique». Lisa, like any Swede, celebrates summer in the outdoors. «The long months of darkness push us to celebrate the summer season in the parks. Any time is a good time to slow down and enjoy the sunlight» she adds, «the islands are another unique element of the capital city, from which you can admire epic scenery at a short distance from the city». Living in harmony with nature is a recurring theme in Lisa’s words. This concept also takes shape in her jewelry creations, where she gives a new life to silver, the only element used by her brand. «Every piece is handcrafted and produced in Stockholm» she says. She relies on the most skilled artisans in town, who are selected for each and every collection. Hers is an identity that is just as feminine as it is rigorously Made in Sweden. It reveals itself in the classic elegance of a little museum, one of her favorite in town, where she takes us to admire its geometries and magnificent location.

The Carl Eldh Museum has turned the atelier of the greatest Swedish sculptor of the 20th century into a meeting place for passionate enthusiasts of hidden wonders.

«I like it because it is small and because it combines art with nature». Her enthusiasm for Swedish traditions does not only engage sight, but also taste. So, as she moves along the tree-lined boulevards downtown, the sun shedding its light onto her cat-eye sunglasses, walking towards one of her favorite cafés – Pascal Caffè, that she guarantees is the best place to enjoy the Swedish custom of Fika in Stockholm – clad in her total black silhouette, for a moment she gives the illusion of being in Paris. But that’s another story.

Guess Festival Collection!

Ogni anno l’arrivo della bella stagione è celebrata, neanche a dirlo, a suon di musica.

Tra gli eventi più attesi che le rendono omaggio, ci sono i festival, che già a partire dal mese di aprile si susseguono nelle cornici più suggestive e più o meno note d’Europa, suscitando un rinnovato slancio in un contesto post pandemico che da quest’anno ha ritrovato un seguito senza precedenti in termini di partecipazione. I mesi di maggio e giugno fanno da volano agli innumerevoli sound e suggestioni dai paesi più diversi, al punto che per districarsi nell’onda lunga dei festival si può solo cavalcarla sfrondando l’offerta e selezionando per generi. Così partendo dalla dorsale del Nord Europa, i quattro giorni del Bergenfest, in Norvegia uniscono, in un sapiente mix, sound nordici e rock internazionale arricchiti dalle note meno usuali del country americano. I festival non sono solo musica, sono anche eventi in grado di diventare un tutt’uno con paesaggi straordinari grazie al potere del suono. Così dal grande nord fino agli avamposti a sud del Mediterraneo il fascino delle performance live non conosce eguali: dall’indie rock, fino all’elettronica, passando per il jazz e il pop. Dalla Cornovaglia, all’interno dell’Eden Project, un paradiso ricavato da un’ex cava di kaolinite al cui interno sono custodite due delle più grandi biosfere del mondo, fino al festival del jazz ad Atene, nella straordinaria cornice post-industriale di Technopolis.  

Anche il Primavera Sound di Barcellona, uno dei festival più amati dai cultori della musica indie rock, quest’anno seguito anche in streaming, ha regalato performance, a bordo mare, alla stregua di accadimenti emotivi.

Poteva Guess, brand giovane e ammaliante, amante della fiesta, non tributare allo spirito della musica e dei Rainbow Color Festival una collezione dedicata?

La Festival Collection di Guess è tutto questo e ancora di più.

Un viaggio alchemico che trasforma le sonorità in montature geometriche e avvolgenti, e i decibel nei colori vivaci e brillanti dei mesi estivi. Proprio a Barcellona, nel suo flag store nel quartiere più chic della città, Guess ha presentato la sua Festival Collection, con la complicità di Elisa Maino e altre ospiti invitate a celebrare la giornata 

Look e location mi ricordano Runaway di Aurora. Questo pezzo mi trasmette un bellissimo senso di pace. Il luogo e l’outfit romantico abbinati all’occhiale dalla silhouette femminile creano un radioso effetto di luce sul mio viso.

Il potere della memoria viaggia su note musicali.

“Ricordo che quando avevo circa 14 anni indossavo sempre vestitini floreali e occhiali appariscenti dalla montatura importante. Ascoltavo tantissimo i One Direction”, ricorda Elisa.

Questo abbinamento fa da specchio alle ore trascorse ad ascoltare le loro canzoni insieme alle mie amiche durante le giornate al lago dove abitavo quando ero più piccola.

Con questo spirito mixare occhiali e ispirazioni sonore si è rivelato un gioco in grado di creare suggestioni dalla forte personalità. Fino al prossimo Festival.

Barton Perreira

1

Craftsmanship is your distinctiveness. Which is the reason why you chose Japan for your manufacturing?

Bill Barton. We firmly believe that Japan is home to the world’s best eyewear manufacturers. Our longstanding relationship with our artisans in Japan spans over 30 years. The level of understanding and communication between us is exceptionally high, a rarity within our industry. The core of our design process is centered around a steadfast commitment to craftsmanship. Our frames are meticulously handcrafted artisanal products produced by Japanese factories with a multi-generational legacy. Collaborating closely with our artisans, we draw upon their rich heritage in creating the finest eyewear worldwide. In Japan, meticulous attention to detail is paramount, ensuring that every pair of glasses fits flawlessly. Every single element must be executed with precision. The final product exudes a distinct aura of luxury. This approach to our design process sets us apart from other brands.

 

Our frames are meticulously handcrafted artisanal products produced by Japanese factories with a multi-generational legacy.
2

In terms of stylistic codes, how do you translate two words you care a lot: instinctive and uncompromising?

Patty Perreira. My design process is highly instinctive, and I consciously choose not to adhere to trends. Inspiration for my designs can vary greatly, encompassing shapes, colors, specific technologies, and even moods. I incorporate fluid shapes, dynamic compositions, and unexpected elements into my designs while remaining mindful of the contours of the face, ensuring that the final product complements the wearer. As a highly visual individual, I find inspiration in nearly everything I encounter. When creating and developing designs, we are uncompromising on aspects such as quality, craftsmanship, functionality, and aesthetics. Our Japanese artisans understand our vision and the high level of quality we aspire to, from the materials we use to the construction of every frame.

I consciously choose not to adhere to trends. Inspiration for my designs can vary greatly, encompassing shapes, colors, specific technologies, and even moods.
3

Which horizons does your research aim at in terms of innovative materials?

Patty Perreira. We work with our Japanese artisans to explore new materials that offer enhanced durability, lightweight properties, and flexibility for the ultimate fit. Our overarching goal is to push the boundaries of traditional materials and explore new ways to enhance our collections. Through ongoing research and collaborations, we strive to introduce innovative materials that offer sustainable, high-performance, and technologically advanced solutions in our designs.

 

 

 

Emilio Fulgione

1

The Traceability Project, whose launch you oversaw, is an important step involving the supply chain. What’s it all about?

Sustainability is one of the cornerstones of the Marcolin story: we’re committed to this issue in every area of the company, starting with the product and involving the entire value chain. The result of this engagement, in terms of product for example, prompted the company, the first in the eyewear sector – among manufacturers – to obtain ISO 13485:2016 certification, an international standard for quality management systems in the medical device sector. An important prerequisite for this award was the ‘Traceability Project’ in which the company has been engaged for some time, supporting continuous monitoring in the supply chain of glasses placed on the market. The project envisages that all frames for sunglasses and prescription glasses made by Marcolin will feature a laser-engraved serial number on the temple (also indicated on the labelling of each product, together with the date of manufacture), thus enabling the company to trace the frames from production to distribution. 

2

How does traceability affect the sustainability of both natural and human resources?

Certification and the Traceability Project are part of a broader ESG plan developed by the company, which has economic, social and environmental sustainability as one of the foundations of its development strategy. We embrace care for the environment, for people and for effective, modern corporate governance, to achieve those 17 SDGs [Sustainable Development Goals, Ed.] set by the United Nations in 2015. A commitment for all of us, which we also ask our partners and suppliers to share, in a vision of collective social responsibility. 

3

What’s the secret of an efficient and sustainable supply chain, and in which factors will Marcolin be investing in the future?

Marcolin pursues its commitment by investing: through research and development projects focusing on new sustainable materials for both products and packaging. Then we have monitoring and quality and product safety control along all stages of the value chain. But we go even further than that, by qualifying and selecting our suppliers, drawing up an ongoing analysis and risk assessment. Attention to the environment also involves our production site, whose environmental management system is certified in compliance with ISO 14001. It’s the accolades we’ve received that motivate us to continue along this path: we’re constantly engaged in the study and development of energy efficiency and waste reduction projects. Without forgetting the importance of the safety of the environments in which production facilities are located. Ensuring safe, healthy environments for our resources is another of the company’s core values. 

Timberland and the Earthkeepers®

Quarantanove anni fa, il 5 giugno 1974, si celebrava la prima giornata mondiale dell’ambiente.

Istituita dall’Assemblea Generale delle Nazioni Unite nel 1972, allo scopo di tracciare un Programma di politiche ambientali, l’iniziativa ha raccolto nel corso del tempo l’adesione di oltre 100 paesi a sostegno di una campagna di sensibilizzazione che fa sentire la propria voce ogni anno, il giorno 5 del mese di giugno. In un crescendo, la comunità internazionale, sempre più nutrita e coesa, si è di volta in volta occupata di un focus diverso: l’edizione del 2023, ospitata in Costa d’Avorio, in partnership con i Paesi Bassi, si concentra su un tema di scottante attualità in fatto di inquinamento ambientale e ricorda quanto le azioni dei singoli individui siano fondamentali nel contrasto all’utilizzo della plastica nella vita di tutti i giorni. Lo slogan scelto per accompagnare la campagna si annuncia già virale: #Beatplasticpollution. A questo slogan e alle azioni che puntano a un impegno concreto a tutela dell’ambiente si unisce anche Marcolin, dando voce a uno dei suoi top brand tra i più innovativi sulla scena.

Questa è la storia di Timberland, il cui sentiero intrapreso ha portato l’azienda ad essere leader mondiale nella progettazione e commercializzazione di calzature di qualità premium, abbigliamento e accessori per coloro che amano la vita outdoor.

Timberland realizza prodotti impegnandosi ad apportare il suo contributo per affrontare le sfide ambientali e minimizzare l’impatto sul pianeta. È in questo contesto che il marchio ha sposato una forma di design squisitamente responsabile e dato vita a una collezione eyewear che intreccia materiali ad alto tasso valoriale e il bene comune: perché mai come oggi è tempo degli Earthkeepers®! La filosofia che sta alla base di questa collezione è semplice e pulita, promuovendo l’impegno a proteggere l’ambiente attraverso prodotti responsabili.

Con questa chiara visione nascono i due nuovi modelli Earthkeepers® della primavera 2023.

Occhiali da sole e da vista, dal design esclusivo e responsabile, realizzati con il 50% di plastica a base biologica. Come si traduce tutto questo in fatto di stile? In occhiali in acetato bio-based, costituito da fibre di legno e di cotone o di originale vegetale, pensati per gli amanti delle attività outdoor o per vivere la realtà quotidiana di scenari urbani. La ricercatezza sta nel dettaglio: nelle montature, impreziosite da inserti in metallo e gomma, e nel sapiente uso del colore, come per esempio nella collezione da sole dalle lenti polarizzate, il cui trattamento antiriflesso favorisce la percezione e, al contempo, la protezione da potenziali raggi dannosi. Che si tratti della classica montatura da vista squadrata, o della versione da sole dallo spirito casual, il valore sta tanto nel dettaglio quanto nella dimensione che incarnano: la filosofia degli Earthkeepers®.