Max Mara’s Muses

Iconic Tribute

Eileen Gray and Lee Miller. Two contemporary female icons who are a great source of inspiration for a brand like Max Mara, as well as the undisputed stars of the new eyewear collection designed by Marcolin. The first one is an Irish architect and designer, as well as a globally recognized pioneer of the modernist movement, who graced the pages of British Vogue back in 1917 and who, in Paris in the 1920s, combined her work in architecture with her work on the series production of tubular steel furniture pieces (her adjustable table E-1027 is part of the permanent collection of MoMA in New York). A world-famous model who later became a sophisticated and fearless photographer, Lee Miller is a leading figure in the surrealist movement but also a war photographer, actually one of the first (and the only woman) to capture the liberation of Paris and the Nazi concentration camps.

The New Collection

Max Mara, a brand that has always loved celebrating the style and personality of the most interesting and influential female figures in contemporary history, thus stays true to its attitude also in this eyewear collection. It does so with an eyewear release that, with its interplay of lines and dimensions, nuances and precious details, evokes the signature style of these two key figures in the aesthetic and culture of the Twentieth Century. Eileen Gray’s rigorous and detail-oriented style and Lee Miller’s glamorous and unconventional one.

“frames that amaze with their oversize looks, sinuous lines, tubular profiles and bold volumes”

Precious Details

But how do Eileen Gray’s architecture and Lee Miller’s attitude translate into the new Max Mara eyewear collection? With innovative, edgy yet elegant designs, as well as frames that amaze with their oversize looks, sinuous lines, tubular profiles and bold volumes. A variety of different aesthetic solutions, including some options embellished with Maxim, the sparkling jewel-like geometric detail that identifies the collection and that co-stars in this all-women collection.

 

Alessandro Borghese

In your life you have spent some periods in the US and New York: what does it mean representing our cuisine in the United States today?

«To represent Italy in the US for someone who was born in the US to a Neapolitan father and a Czechoslovakian mother is, first of all, an honour. And today, after many years in Italy, working within kitchens and on TV, to land back in the States, where I was born and that I left forty years ago, is fascinating. It was quite impactful from a cultural point of view, from a culinary point of view, as well as in terms of style, art and beauty. I love beauty and bringing all this here, to the United States, is for me a privilege. A way to express my Italian identity but, at the same time, to get in touch with my American side».

2

How do you feel about this new responsibility as “Ambassador of Italian cuisine in the United States”?

«My appointment as Ambassador of Italian cuisine in the US, because the government decided to accelerate and promote the inclusion of Italian cuisine in UNESCO’s list of Intangible Cultural Heritage, pleasantly surprised me. The fact that the government was pleased to promote it in the United States and to exploit me as, let’s say, the spearhead to enter the American market was a great source of pride and achievement for me and my whole team, the staff of my restaurant “Il Lusso della Semplicità”. We told ourselves: “Well, we must have done something nice!”».

 

“we’d like to adapt a bit of our Italian identity to the American market”
3

What are the most appreciated Made in Italy “ingredients” overseas?

«So, if I imagined myself as a conductor with all my ingredients, and I had to create a dish representing Italian cuisine to bring to a market like the US, that dish would be on the same level as an Italian furniture piece, an Italian sartorial item, a car, a pair of glasses. These are all “Made in Italy” products that are already very appealing to the market, but we’d like to adapt a bit of our Italian identity to the American market. This is something that all the true ambassadors of “Made in Italy” should do, making sure that everything is accurately tailored to customers».

Marcolin in New York City

In the heart of Manhattan

A few days ago, Marcolin celebrated the opening of its new showroom on the 19th floor of a luxury building located at 270 Madison Avenue, the “most instagrammable street in Manhattan,” where some of the world’s most famous luxury brands have their shop windows. Designed by Milan-based Navone Associati studio – which also created the Paris space in Rue de Richelieu – the new Marcolin showroom is a well-lit space with a large gallery dedicated to all the brands in the Group’s portfolio, next to the offices, and a beautiful terrace overlooking the typical New York City skyline.

Tradition meets augmented reality

On the evening of the opening ceremony, guests and visitors had the opportunity to experience firsthand the unique mix of craftsmanship and innovation that is behind the Marcolin brand, while enjoying the beat of a live DJ set. This was possible thanks to a “creative room” dedicated to prototype design and creation and to a new augmented reality project that, through the use of special visors, allowed guests to take a virtual tour of the Group’s manufacturing facility in Italy, go “behind the scenes,” and discover all the eyewear creation and manufacturing phases.

“This was possible thanks to a “creative room” dedicated to prototype design and creation”

A cocktail of excellent products

Customers, partners, and journalists who attended the opening ceremony of the new showroom in Madison Avenue also had a chance to enjoy an amazing food tasting during the cocktail party organized by celebrated chef Alessandro Borghese. Chef Borghese was not there by chance, but because he is also very much loved in the United States, where he lived (he was born in San Francisco) and where he is considered one of Italy’s most influential ambassadors of traditional cuisine.

Francesca Valan

1

It’s proven that color preferences follow cycles: tomorrow we’ll get tired of any color we love today. How can we choose a pair of glasses “for life”?

«Since the Covid pandemic we’ve all become more aware, color sensitivity has become more widespread and our choice parameters have also changed greatly. When we speak about colors, no-trend is the real trend today: we are all – businesses and individuals alike – instinctively looking for iconic colors that are destined to stand the test of time. And that also embrace a multisensorial dimension, for instance a certain scent associated with a certain material and a certain color. In case of eyewear, this translates into a certain shape, a (glossy, natural or matte) material and a (more or less saturated) color that represent and express our personality. Our eyewear of choice can be black or colored, small or oversize. But it’s always better to have a way out».

2

Is a pair of glasses enough?

«No, you need at least two: a pair to wear in the long term, on which you can invest a bit more, and a pair that meets your need for change. Whether it’s for an evening out, a special occasion or a holiday. Because you’re bound to get tired of a red frame if you wear it every day, but if you learn to measure it – like a spice in a recipe – then it becomes a stylish reflection of your personality».

“when you speak about an accessory like eyewear, materials also matter greatly”
3

A frame can be made of different materials: does this affect your color choice?

«According to the rules of color harmony, you can find your most flattering hues based on your natural colors, such as the skin tone, hair shade and eye color. The interesting thing is that, if they keep an open mind, anyone is instinctively drawn to such hues. However, when you speak about an accessory like eyewear, materials also matter greatly: how many there are, how they reflect the light, if there are any jewel-like details and so on. So, in the end I have just one final tip for you: if you are a monochrome but multi-material lover, you can play with colored, mono-material frames. On the other hand, if you love bright colors you’ll look good with monochrome frames embellished with unique details and inserts».

ic! berlin & Bibhu Mohapatra

Perfect mix

Modern yet traditional frames, for both men and women, with neutral tones and vibrant inserts: Bibhu Mohapatra is the world’s most loved and appreciated haute-couture designer (also by celebrities of the caliber of Michelle Obama, Jennifer Lopez and Hilary Swank) for his unique talent for combining the opposites in a fine mix of Indian design, painstaking attention to craftsmanship and western-style modernity. It is no surprise that, during the New York Fashion Week, Mohapatra decided to make his debut in the world of eyewear. Nor that he decided to do so together with innovative German brand ic! berlin, which recently joined the Marcolin portfolio.

“every frame from this capsule is the result of a cocktail of art and engineering”

Elective affinity

With its precious details and German minimalism, every frame from this capsule is the result of a cocktail of art and engineering: each and every piece speaks of the fleeting beauty of haute couture, framed by the concrete sobriety of ic! berlin, an eyewear brand that is globally recognized for its unique screwless hinge design and for the use of lightweight titanium.  But this connection was not born by chance: Bibhu Mohapatra’s father, a mechanical engineer in India, worked with several German companies throughout his career. And today, decades after, this new collaboration with Berlin is, for the 50-year-old designer, a symbolic bridge between his family’s past and his professional present.

“The capsule collection by Bibhu Mohapatra for ic! berlin is all about an Eastern feel (and a great variety of designs)”.

The collection

Large shield designs, small geometric shapes, colorful, ultra-lightweight and transparent eyewear as precious as lace, tinged with bright, enameled hues or subtle color gradients. The capsule collection by Bibhu Mohapatra for ic! berlin is all about an Eastern feel (and a great variety of designs). A clear aesthetic elegantly blends together with the minimalist lines and rigorous design that have always characterized the eyewear of the brand from Berlin. In other words, a collection that, in its small way, tells the (happy) story of an encounter.

8 March: Marcolin earns the Gender Equality Certification

Concrete solutions

Work-from-home and tools for flexible working time management, introduction of a session dedicated to women’s leadership within the Leadership Academy, a pathway for future managers, support for the psychological aspect for all the employees with focus groups dedicated to new mothers, conclusion of agreements with daycare centers. These are only some of the concrete initiatives, the ones that women really need, allowing Marcolin to earn the gender equality certification. An important acknowledgment, issued by the certification bodies accredited with Accredia, achieved after a challenging journey lasting a few years in favour of new inclusive and corporate welfare policies. And conducted based on specific indicators related to six assessment areas that characterize an inclusive and gender-responsive organization: culture and strategy, governance, Human Resources processes, opportunities for the growth and inclusion of women in the company, equal pay for both genders, parenting support and work-life balance.

More women at the top

“Our journey starts from afar, where diversity, equity and inclusion are considered strategic levers for business development and the promotion of an equitable and gender-friendly culture” said Sabrina Paulon, Marcolin Group HR Director. Because today women need not only solutions that allow them to better reconcile life and work, children and professional commitments, but also real opportunities for space, visibility and career. The same as their male colleagues. A topic that has been particularly close to the heart of this Company for many years given that, according to October 2023 data, that 62% of Marcolin’s people are women, of whom 40% occupy managerial positions and 50% have executive roles.

“diversity, equity and inclusion are considered strategic levers for business development”

See you in 2025

This acknowledgment (valid for three years and subject to annual monitoring) should not be considered a point of arrival, nor should it slow down the path undertaken so far. For this reason, the certifying body, during its assessment, also considered Marcolin Group’s establishment of a wide and strategic plan covering the period from now to 2025. A structured plan, including training sessions on the topic, new supports for parenting and work-life balance together with initiatives to promote fairness in selection processes and career development. And which is just waiting to be carried forward with commitment to achieve an ambitious and important objective, especially in our country: achieving a full gender equality.

 

Antonio Jové

1

A well-balanced portfolio, direct relationships with the sales network and special attention to the luxury segment: what is Marcolin’s main strength, the one that has determined the growth in recent years?

«I would say that we have 3 strengths which distinguish us from competitors. The first one is our people. We have built up a team in EMEA and strengthened it over time, which has allowed us to always be close to the customers. The second thing is the brand portfolio. We have a very well-balanced portfolio between luxury, diffusion, sun, optical, men, and women, that allows us to easily meet the client’s needs. And the third one is that in recent years we have been focusing on and expanding the luxury segment, where we really have an absolute leading brand and the Company is investing in new brands right now: ZEGNA, ic! berlin, and we will be launching very soon one of the most popular brands of the moment, Christian Louboutin».

2

You are leading very different geographical, economic, and cultural areas: what are the main differences between opticians in the markets, what strategies do they require?

«It is true that the EMEA region is wide, and we reach our clients in two different ways. One is through our subsidiaries, the other is export. In our branches we have evolved and transited from micro to macro areas. Today, we have 3 macro areas that speak the same language, the language that our clients need. These 3 areas are managed by 3 Heads of, and below these 3 Heads of, the key person, who is managing the market today, is the Sales Manager. And below that Sales Manager, we have the two languages we need to reach the client».

“We have two very clear and combined goals for EMEA, especially for this year”
3

We are at the beginning of 2024: can you tell us what Marcolin’s objectives are for the EMEA area? Is there a segment you are focusing on in particular?

«We have two very clear and combined goals for EMEA, especially for this year. The first is to make this new organization we have implemented in our branches work and allow it to take on a significant role within the market, and the second we are focusing on is related to export. Here we have four very clear projects that we are going to implement throughout 2024. It is true that luxury is very important within our Company. Luxury is growing. We have one of the most important, or maybe the most important, brand in the luxury industry and the Company will continue to invest in this segment. We have another strong reality, which is ZEGNA. There is no doubt we will also launch the brand ic! berlin on the market during 2024, and towards the end of the year we will launch Christian Louboutin».