IN CONVERSATION WITH Yao Hongying
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Yao Hongying
Raised in a family of embroiderers, Yao Hongying learned the ancient art of Suzhou embroidery from an early age. The city of Suzhou is renowned for its centuries-old tradition of silk embroidery. Today, she is regarded as one of the leading artists in the field. We meet her on the occasion of the Qixi Festival, a celebration inspired by the “Legend of the Cowherd and the Weaver Girl” and widely regarded in China as Valentine’s Day.
One of the most fascinating qualities of Suzhou embroidery is the shimmering brilliance of the silk threads it is made of. How do you bring light into your embroideries?
«The brilliance comes from the way the different silk threads are worked together: when thoughts flow freely and without interruption, the piece will naturally be filled with light. For us, the soul of Suzhou embroidery lies precisely in the flow and shifting reflections of light across the surface, resonating with the emotions of the person creating it. As the silk threads pass through the eye of the needle, their sheen subtly changes with every variation in angle and tension—at times soft as flowing water, at others radiant like clouds at sunset».
Do you believe that the theme of light creates a connection between your embroidery and the world of eyewear?
«The polishing of a frame’s finishes and the refraction of lenses transform a pair of glasses from a tool for seeing into an object to be admired. The interplay of light and shadow across the materials conveys emotion and personality. In a way, we are both exploring light, albeit through different means. When we were learning embroidery, our teacher gave us a very effective example: to depict a flower or a leaf, you must first understand its veins and structure. If you want to embroider a portrait, you must first grasp its essence and charm. You need to understand it and envision it. The same principle applies to eyewear design: it is not simply about helping people see well, but about creating an object that can be seen and appreciated by others».
Ultimately, what makes a silk embroidery truly unique?
«The fact that every thread embodies the embroiderer’s understanding of the subject and her reverence for beauty. Because what truly moves the heart is never light itself, but the unwavering emotion that gives it warmth».
